Another really great tactic is to nourish the hair by eating plenty of fruits, vegetables, and omega-3-rich foods, such as salmon, nuts, and seeds, and by using products that contain nourishing ingredients such as Co-Q10, as well as lipids, emollients, and essential oils, such as omega-3 (linolenic acid) and omega-6, coconut oil, olive oil, tamanu oil, and argan oil. Something to be wary of are products that contain lipids that are very far down the ingredient list. This means there isn't much of that ingredient in the formula. Lipids and emollients work at the root level to draw in moisture to the skin cells in the scalp, strengthening the follicle to grow strong healthy hair.
And please, please, do NOT brush your chemically treated hair over and over, hoping to bring the natural oils from the scalp down through the shaft and ends. Maybe for virgin hair that can be acceptable...but certainly not for moisture depleted hair. Oil and moisture are two drastically different things, and brushing damaged hair will only serve to damage it further. The hair needs repaired, not added stress.
Each hair grows from a single follicle in the scalp. At the base of the follicle is the papilla, the bulb of the hair where most growth takes place. Right at the point where the hair emerges from the scalp, there is a sebaceous oil gland, which nourishes the hair beneath the scalp, the scalp itself, and the base of the hair shaft. Problem is, the hair, once it emerges from the scalp, is no longer alive. It is basically a dead fiber. And that is why we need a conditioner to keep it soft, shiny, and manageable.
Conditioning the hair is one of the most important things we do for our hair. The goal is to make the cuticle (the outermost layer of the hair...the skin of the hair), lie flat and smooth. The cuticle is made up of layers that resemble fish scales, or shingles on a roof. These scales either rise open or seal shut, depending on what they must endure. Wind, the hot elements (outside or inside...think blow dryers, flat irons, etc.). When the fibers of the cuticle are raised or open, hair is vulnerable, making it look dull, dry, and brittle. When the cuticle is closed, it acts as a protective shield and helps to seal in moisture. Shine is obtained through a closed cuticle, and the hair is much more manageable. The hair is reflective and appears shiny, like any other smooth surface. Although curly hair has a natural tendency to have a more raised cuticle, all hair types benefit from a smooth cuticle.
Now that the 101 session is complete enough, let's decide how this is best done. First, condition only where the hair needs it. The root area rarely needs conditioning. Remember the sebaceous gland that lives right at the exit point? So let's start about one to two inches from the scalp all the way to the ends of the hair. One exception...those of us with very fine, limp hair may need to take that a bit further away from the scalp. Maybe just the mid-shaft and the ends will need the conditioner. This keeps us from experiencing an oily scalp and limp hair. Use only as much conditioner as you truly need and rinse thoroughly with cold water (helps keep the added moisture inside where you want it). I wish I had a dollar for every client that has told me they cannot use conditioners because it makes their hair go limp. They just haven't been taught HOW to condition. EVERYone needs to use conditioners.
There are, of course, exceptions to the rule of not conditioning the root area. Very coarse hair or hair that is dry due to excessive chemical processing may require routine root-to-end conditioning. Also monthly or deep conditioning treatments should be done from the roots to the ends. Always choose a conditioner that contains essential oils that are beneficial to the hair as a natural hydrator, like sunflower seed, rosemary, ivy, aloe, peppermint oil, hops extract, and even sage.
But, how do we find the right one since there are a gazillion to choose from? First, remember that many conditioners contain heavy silicones, which coat the cuticle with an artificial barrier. Stay away...far away. It's like slathering your hair with floor wax.
At the beginning of using these heavy silicones, the hair feels great...but only for a while. After rinsing it off wet hair, it feels slippery, so we think it's working...right? So we use it on a regular basis, swinging our hair back and forth as it glistens in the sun. Does that picture bring any conditioning advertizements to mind? Maybe six to eight months later, the hair begins to feel weighted down, drier than ever, dull, and lifeless.
So, here's my recommendation. If you have dry, coarse, curly, processed, or badly damaged hair, consider using a deep conditioner or a hot oil treatment at least once a week, or twice a month for less-damaged hair, to keep it well moisturized. When using the conditioner in the shower, throw on a shower cap to trap the heat from the warm water. This will open up the cuticles and let the conditioner seep deeper into the hair shaft.
Here's a couple of DIY's, that I found from a renowned stylist to the stars, who I follow and learn from. I know I may be shooting myself in the foot, but there will be times when one just cannot make it into the salon, and I'm here to help as much as possible to get us through trying times. The first one is for keeping the tone in your sun-scorched tresses. The second is to boost the condition of your hair.
