Summertime has its enchantments, but can wreck havoc on our color treated hair...aka chemically damaged hair. I'm here to keep that from happening to you. First, a little Hair 101.
When hair has never been colored, permed, or highlighted, nothing can get inside the hair shaft because it's still got its guts...it's resilient. When we chemically treat our hair by highlighting or bleaching it, or perming it, the hair shaft is hollowed out, causing damage and a lot of drying out.
What to do? Glad you asked! Just so you can make an educated decision, let me explain about the various conditioners available today. Those with heavy silicones make hair look healthy for a while but hide the fact that it's still damaged and dry. Silicones are not treatment ingredients. They simply smooth the hair shaft, giving the illusion of health, shine, and manageability. Nothing wrong with that. You can think of this as makeup for your hair...like using a bronzer to give you the appearance of youth and radiance.
But...there are many types of silicones to choose from. Thankfully, we aren't locked in to one type only. Anyone with damaged hair (chemically treated), should pick the light ones that have a weightless conditioning effect. Remember the makeup for your hair thingy. While heavy, matte makeup looks caked on, sheer, light makeup makes skin look fresh and healthy. We want to look for conditioners that contain weightless silicones such as dimethicone copolyol (water soluble) and phenyl dimethicone, or cyclomethicone. The ones to steer clear of are the amodimethicones. Anything with "amo" "amine" or "amino" in their name. They condition well but you'll have a hard time removing the build up. Yes...take the time to check out the ingredients.
Another really great tactic is to nourish the hair by eating plenty of fruits, vegetables, and omega-3-rich foods, such as salmon, nuts, and seeds, and by using products that contain nourishing ingredients such as Co-Q10, as well as lipids, emollients, and essential oils, such as omega-3 (linolenic acid) and omega-6, coconut oil, olive oil, tamanu oil, and argan oil. Something to be wary of are products that contain lipids that are very far down the ingredient list. This means there isn't much of that ingredient in the formula. Lipids and emollients work at the root level to draw in moisture to the skin cells in the scalp, strengthening the follicle to grow strong healthy hair.
And please, please, do NOT brush your chemically treated hair over and over, hoping to bring the natural oils from the scalp down through the shaft and ends. Maybe for virgin hair that can be acceptable...but certainly not for moisture depleted hair. Oil and moisture are two drastically different things, and brushing damaged hair will only serve to damage it further. The hair needs repaired, not added stress.
Each hair grows from a single follicle in the scalp. At the base of the follicle is the papilla, the bulb of the hair where most growth takes place. Right at the point where the hair emerges from the scalp, there is a sebaceous oil gland, which nourishes the hair beneath the scalp, the scalp itself, and the base of the hair shaft. Problem is, the hair, once it emerges from the scalp, is no longer alive. It is basically a dead fiber. And that is why we need a conditioner to keep it soft, shiny, and manageable.
Conditioning the hair is one of the most important things we do for our hair. The goal is to make the cuticle (the outermost layer of the hair...the skin of the hair), lie flat and smooth. The cuticle is made up of layers that resemble fish scales, or shingles on a roof. These scales either rise open or seal shut, depending on what they must endure. Wind, the hot elements (outside or inside...think blow dryers, flat irons, etc.). When the fibers of the cuticle are raised or open, hair is vulnerable, making it look dull, dry, and brittle. When the cuticle is closed, it acts as a protective shield and helps to seal in moisture. Shine is obtained through a closed cuticle, and the hair is much more manageable. The hair is reflective and appears shiny, like any other smooth surface. Although curly hair has a natural tendency to have a more raised cuticle, all hair types benefit from a smooth cuticle.
Now that the 101 session is complete enough, let's decide how this is best done. First, condition only where the hair needs it. The root area rarely needs conditioning. Remember the sebaceous gland that lives right at the exit point? So let's start about one to two inches from the scalp all the way to the ends of the hair. One exception...those of us with very fine, limp hair may need to take that a bit further away from the scalp. Maybe just the mid-shaft and the ends will need the conditioner. This keeps us from experiencing an oily scalp and limp hair. Use only as much conditioner as you truly need and rinse thoroughly with cold water (helps keep the added moisture inside where you want it). I wish I had a dollar for every client that has told me they cannot use conditioners because it makes their hair go limp. They just haven't been taught HOW to condition. EVERYone needs to use conditioners.
There are, of course, exceptions to the rule of not conditioning the root area. Very coarse hair or hair that is dry due to excessive chemical processing may require routine root-to-end conditioning. Also monthly or deep conditioning treatments should be done from the roots to the ends. Always choose a conditioner that contains essential oils that are beneficial to the hair as a natural hydrator, like sunflower seed, rosemary, ivy, aloe, peppermint oil, hops extract, and even sage.
But, how do we find the right one since there are a gazillion to choose from? First, remember that many conditioners contain heavy silicones, which coat the cuticle with an artificial barrier. Stay away...far away. It's like slathering your hair with floor wax.
At the beginning of using these heavy silicones, the hair feels great...but only for a while. After rinsing it off wet hair, it feels slippery, so we think it's working...right? So we use it on a regular basis, swinging our hair back and forth as it glistens in the sun. Does that picture bring any conditioning advertizements to mind? Maybe six to eight months later, the hair begins to feel weighted down, drier than ever, dull, and lifeless.
So, here's my recommendation. If you have dry, coarse, curly, processed, or badly damaged hair, consider using a deep conditioner or a hot oil treatment at least once a week, or twice a month for less-damaged hair, to keep it well moisturized. When using the conditioner in the shower, throw on a shower cap to trap the heat from the warm water. This will open up the cuticles and let the conditioner seep deeper into the hair shaft.
Here's a couple of DIY's, that I found from a renowned stylist to the stars, who I follow and learn from. I know I may be shooting myself in the foot, but there will be times when one just cannot make it into the salon, and I'm here to help as much as possible to get us through trying times. The first one is for keeping the tone in your sun-scorched tresses. The second is to boost the condition of your hair.
1. Chamomile Tea is Not Just for Drinking.
It's a natural toner that gives hair a warm honey hue. It will also add depth to faded, dull blonde hair. You will need to boil some water, drop in a teabag, and let it steep. After the tea cools, wash your hair, condition it, pour the tea over your hair, and let it dry. This will give your color a boost and a healthy glow, but not permanently...it will only last until your next shampoo. You can use darker-colored teas for darker hair. For example, strong black tea will tone black hair, while hibiscus tea, paprika, or rosehips enhance reddish tones.
2. Deep Conditioning Boosters
This actually aired on the show, The Doctors, in 2011. Still holds true.
For dry, curly, coarse, or kinky hair, use a banana mask that hydrates hair really well. All you have to do is whip 1 tablespoon of olive oil, 1 egg, and 1/2 banana in a bow, then apply it to your hair using your hands or a tint brush, section by section, from the mid shaft to the ends. Leave the mixture on your hair for twenty minutes or so, preferably underneath a shower cap. Wash, condition, and style your hair as usual. The results will be that your hair looks shinier than it has in a very long time.
For fine or oily hair, you'll want to soak up as much oil on the roots as possible without drying the ends. Essential oils are the go-to potion. To get the benefits of the natural oils, make a mixture of apple cider vinegar, which will remove any buildup of excess oils on the hair, and some emollients to gently hydrate the hair. Use a drop or two of mandarin orange or lavender essential oil with a squeeze of fresh lemon to help the hair rinse clear. Put this mixture into a non-aerosol atomizer, shake it, and then spray it onto the hair from the root to the midshaft. You can also pour the mixture on with a cup or bow. Don't spray the mixture on the ends, since they don't need it. Leave the mixture on the hair for about twenty minutes to blot up excess oils. Then wash, condition, and style as usual. The hair will be shiny and soft...without a greasy feel. Do this once a week or twice a month, depending on the texture and oiliness of your hair.
And there you have it. Let me know if this helps, or if you feel it's just too much trouble. Hopefully, you know you can always come by Elements Salon and I'll be very happy to do the work for you and send you home with some already prepared ingredients that need no blending.