Recently, I questioned other beauty professionals, those I have become acquainted with, on their thoughts about glossing and/or glazing. I wanted to see if they believed there to be a difference in the two, and if so, was it just an add-on service to build their bottom line, or did they truly think it necessary for the quality of haircolor to be optimal? Did they make it an automatic part of the haircolor appointment each time the client booked? Or was it a stand-alone service? I had various takes on this "clients need to know" dilemma.
Jumping ahead just a bit, Beth Minardi is an industry icon who has worked both behind the chair and with major haircolor manufactures, as a salon colorist, celebrity stylist, educator and haircolor expert. She is known as the "top hair color expert in NYC" and continues to elevate haircolor to an art form.
Wanting her input on the questions that have been surrounding the add-on service of glossing/glazing, I recently emailed this diva of haircoloring. I asked her about glossing vs. glazing. Here is her response, and I quote:
"Mary. Glossing and glazing are the same thing. Achieved with an
application of sheer acidic color to refresh faded ends and to perform
magical, non alkaline tint backs. Permanent dye further breaks down
hair lengths when applied to refresh color. An acidic gloss does not dry
the hair, replaces faded tone and makes the hair shine like crazy!
Wishing you continued success. Beth"
HA! I concur! So, let's back up just a bit, now. The responses from my fellow business owners were varied. Most believe the addition was necessary with every color application. This made me wonder what color line DOESN'T give shine? Why is there a need to add MORE shine? Others said they used it to boost their bottom line and that they never believed it to be damaging to the hair, so why not? Really??? And one stylist said she only recommend it when her client's hair was excessively dull. I liked that response. This gal has a true heart that hasn't been inflicted with greed, but lives for what is truly needed, while at the same time taking her client's needs into account.
Truth #1: The only time one should add a glossing technique (which is simply refreshing faded shaft & ends), to a clients ticket is when it would boost the client's confidence in the way she looks, and it is needed. Sometimes, the hair just doesn't need that extra boost. Especially when it is well cared for.
Truth #2: An extra charge should, and most likely will, be added to cover product cost of the gloss, and a bit more for the added time to the appointment, if receiving this refresher at the time of getting roots covered. There have been clients that have asked me to comb the retouch formula through the lengths of their hair, and not worry with mixing up a separate batch of color because they believe this is all that is needed to refresh the faded shaft & ends. A stylist should NEVER agree to this. The developer for the outgrowth (the root area) is much stronger than what is used for hair that already has color, faded or not. A fresh (and different) formula is needed for the faded hair, which is now a different color than what is at the root line. This technique alone, will add the shine they are missing, without damaging the hair.
Truth #3: Gloss & Glaze, are one and the same. Some formulas are applied with a clear liquid, others with an offering of color, along with an acidic developer. This whole glossing and glazing debate has been breathed into our existence and carried by the winds of greed, and has now shown it's head in my own salon, going so far as dividing the two services using jargon that elevates the importance of this being a separate service that would add dollars to any ticket. So I felt it necessary to address the issue with a word from one I truly look up to in my chosen industry. Beth Minardi. If I ever have doubts, or if I just need to make a point, I will seek out those with tried and true knowledge; those that have made a career of proven absolutes. Those I can learn the most from...
Wrapping this up, I should say I wouldn't hesitate suggesting a client come into the salon every couple of weeks (especially during the summer months) for a color refresh of shaft & ends, also known as a stand-alone Hair Gloss Service...but only if that client is a sun and/or beach lover, or works outside like many florists do, and if I believed it to be a quality decision. The reason is because outside elements tend to rob us of our investment of beautiful hair color and it's shine. Even hard water will dull hair and remove the shine. Seriously, who doesn't want shine?
For questions or comments, please feel free to do so below, or send me an email through the contact tab at the bottom of this blog post.
Passionately,
Mary