Let's Talk About Oils...

I understand there are some products I just can’t afford. So, I look for the least expensive way to go. Nothing wrong with that. However, when I make that choice, I also realize I will not be getting the quality, nor the results, as I would with a product created to address my individual hair needs.

So…the summer heat is coming round the bend. That means beach time, pool time, tennis time, cook-out time, and sooooo many other times of being in the moisture-sapping sun rays, as they beat down on your smooth, shiny, protected hair strands of last season. You know that season I’m talking about. The “stay behind closed doors and don’t come into contact with people, season.” The season where EVERYTHING was protected. Mostly…

Now it’s time to whip out the oils! Right? But, WHAT oils? Is there a difference? Do I HAVE to buy your expensive oil made exclusively for what the sun is going to rob me of? Pssst….Please understand I am not trying to sell you my silicone-free Dream Oil, nor my leave-in styling conditioner, Dream Cream, even though they would keep your hair looking like a goddess’ hair. Especially in the upcoming “fun-in-the-sun” days.

Let’s do a little Fact vs. Fiction. Hang tight. Surprises are coming your way…

1) FICTION: Coconut Oil is moisturizing. FACT: Moisture comes from water and nothing else. Oil and water do not mix. There is no moisture in cooking oil. While hair might feel soft after its application, just like a candle might feel soft, we all know you’re not feeling the wick, but only the stuff coating it. The wax…

2) FICTION: Your hair gets macro-nutrients from oil. Think protein, fat, carbohydrates. FACT: The only macro nutrient in oil is fat (also contains triglycerides, sterols, fatty alcohols, phosphatides), which the hair cannot use, and would require a digestive process to extract them that hair lacks the capability to do.

3) FICTION: Your hair gets micro-nutrients from oil. Think vitamins and minerals. FACT: The only micro-nutrients in oils are fat-soluble vitamins. The hair would need to have some process of adding its own fat (not a real thing) in order to make those vitamins available. The amount of vitamins available in oil would hardly be worth the effort, even if your hair could get to them.

So, what’s the answer then? How are you to keep your luscious locks looking, um…luscious?

The best thing to do for healthy hair is to use quality, professional products. Non-coating (non-silicone infused) products. “But if it says ‘organic’, then that’s good, right?” If your hair is still organic, it might be. Have you altered it in any way? Or have you ever used non-organic products, chemicals, or heat? You get the picture…

Putting fat on your hair accomplishes nothing, with maybe one messy exception. There are better ways of moisturizing your hair than to add a moisturizer, then seal it in overnight with a tiny amount of oil, just to wash it out the next morning. And your pillowcase, and possibly your sheets.

One rule of thumb is this: If you can use a product to cook a meal with, don’t use it on your hair. Coconut Oil, Vegetable Oil, and even Olive Oil, are all made for cooking. Please. Please don’t put any of these oils in your hair before blow drying or even ironing. Unless, of course, you are into the messy, the spiky, the broken. My hair dryer varies between 320 and 340 degrees at the tip. With oil and heat, you can fry an egg at just 130 degrees. That’s not a good combination, wouldn’t you agree?

MEMO #1: Coconut oil (and most cooking oils) can cause protein build up, blocking your hair from much needed moisture which makes your hair even drier, stiffer and less elastic. It’s just not refined enough to absorb into the hair, so it attaches itself to the cuticle, causing build up. Therefore, using coconut oil as a hair mask can actually make your hair drier, brittle and more damaged than it was before!

MEMO #2: ProRituals Dream OIL (ah…here it is! You knew this was coming), has been formulated and processed for the structure of the hair, helping to prevent damage caused by free radicals. AND…if you cocktail it (pair it up) with the Dream Cream, it will control all your texture and frizz! What?! Yep!!! All while sealing down that sweet protective cuticle. Bonus: It’s silicone free! No build up of moisture confining oils here, ladies and gents. BUT…I’m not trying to sell you any of these miraculous products. (HINT: I do keep them in stock, however, should you tire of the cooking oils. You can even order them on this website! If you want…). 😘😬

Your comments are always welcome. If you think me wrong, please provide some real science and not what some educator told you, or some Google advertisement. I’m not trying to belittle any of you that have been duped into thinking cooking oil is a bonus for hair strands.. Hey! Even I took the bait, long enough to see I needed to find some truth about oils. Just trying to get us all on the same credible page.

Give me some feed back. I welcome it!

A Professional Opinion on Madison Reed at-home Hair Color

“I'm sure you have heard the exuberant amount of "Madison Reed" hair color ads from social media to radio. As a professional stylist and salon owner, I had to try it as well as testing how to purchase on their website. Their site is user friendly and they ask as many relevant questions pertaining to your hair as much as possible which will help determine the best shade, etc. This is far more helpful than buying a box dye at the drug store and thinking the shade on the box will be your end result, but hair dye is not one size fits all.  I realize many people may not be able to afford salon hair color, but are you really saving a whole lot with Madison Reed? Their color kits can be a bit costly compared to purchasing a hair color at a beauty chain such as Sally's. They do offer some professional advice via the site, but without seeing your hair in person & knowing the exact chemicals you use, your hair density, percentage of actual grey, it can be quite difficult to say what will work best for your individual color needs.” ~Noelle Spinosa  

If you have virgin hair (no color/chemical treatments), then using Madison Reed may be okay. What is not okay is if you have chemicals in your hair (which most of us do) and by adding more (or different) chemicals to it, it now becomes something you only see in nightmares. In some of Madison Reeds videos they suggest running color from roots to ends. This is not a good idea on previously colored hair. Hair color does not affect previously colored hair, particularly darker shades. Color doesn’t lift color. So if you are wanting to go lighter, forget it. Unless bleach is involved. The end result will be uneven with lighter roots (on your virgin hair) & darker ends.  If you are staying within your own color level - you may be fine with adding their hair dye, but you may also be surprised that the tones are not what you expected or hoped for.

Also, the grey coverage formulas of Madison Reed are very harsh. Supposedly, it contains no Ammonia, but it does contain ethanolamine which is essentially (1) part ammonia…masked by another name. Ammonia is a part of all permanent hair dyes because it swells the cuticle and allows for the color to penetrate thus changing your color. There are hair dyes that are semi-permanent, but they will not cover gray efficiently, because their job is to only coat your hair with color, which allows the color to fade as you shampoo. The developer just isn’t strong enough to open the cuticle much, and then push the color all the way into the cortex of the strand. I don’t understand how Madison Reed can differentiate themselves from other hair dyes.

Here is the rub: touch ups and consecutive processes with the same formula may not render the same result.  In the salon, we adjust color formulas based on color fade, greying, and chemical processes. And we are trained to know if the hair can, or cannot withstand the process. And if not, we have tools that will protect as we formulate.

As a stylist, I can tell you that hair color is much more scientific than what one may think. That is why it takes years to become a colorist. One doesn’t become good at applying color, just by doing their time in beauty school. Continuous training, with continuous classes, puts one at the top of their game, understanding WHY color responds the way it does, and that all hair is NOT created equal. It may look the same, feel the same, but because of other factors too numerous to mention, is not the same.

There is also an artistic factor that is taken out of the at home dye. Madison Reed also has balayage, which in most cases you are advised to bleach your own hair! It took some time to learn how to balayage. They also provide you with toner, for use, once you’ve bleached your hair. Toner is applied after hair is lightened to, ummmm…tone to a desired shade. Again, there are many factors to determine which toner will create your desired outcome. Some being: the underlying pigment of your hair (results of bleaching) may be more red, yellow or gold than expected and a cookie cutter toner simply may not work.  Also, if your hair is already dyed a dark color, bleach may not be your best option.  

My advice is to skip the Madison Reed lightening and balayage completely!

My opinion is that Madison Reed is better than drug store box dye because it does not contain metals, like the normal over-the-shelf colors do, but it is no better than a color that you could purchase at Sally's, or any beauty supply store that is open to the public (which is crazy…again, my opinion).  BUT…if you are lucky enough, an associate from a beauty supply store may have some color background and will help you determine which color to purchase and the appropriate developer.

Conclusion:  There is nothing better than having your hair colored at a professional salon, but if money is an issue, go to a beauty supply store. Skip Madison Reed. The hair color is less costly and pretty much the same quality. And please be careful if you attempt to lighten your hair on your own, many clients come to me for corrective color after doing so. And many times, they will have to sacrifice up to 6 inches of their locks because of immense breakage. And a reconditioning process begins…

Hang in there, guys and dolls. We’re almost ready to go back to work!!! Stupid Corona…

COVID-19 Causes Hair Color Woes

I think we are about to see everyone’s true colors (pun intended). With the mandated closings of our beauty salons, along with all other “non-essential” businesses (who says hair salons are non-essential, anyway), there are now men and women who are anxious about what to do with their natural hair color popping through. It’s going to be a while before they are allowed back into the familiar, heart-warming spaces, they’ve always relied on to create the look they love.

I know. It’s tough looking in the mirror every morning, just to have hair roots yell back at you to get them covered, while having to deal with more than the condition of ones hair. Right? It can cause a bit of confidence destruction…

And that is why I’m here to help you through this trying time. Well, in the hair department, at least. But first, let’s take a look at what one woman experienced, just last week, from taking matters into her own hands.

“I have never done my own color before, but my roots were terrible,’’ Upper East Sider Annette Hanson tells The Post. Last week, the beauty consultant was at her place in Palm Beach, glued to the news. With a sinking feeling, she realized that Paul Labrecque, the salon she’s frequented for 25 years, would likely be closed before she could get back to New York. So she rushed to the drugstore for a box of dye.”

It went badly. At home coloring is a disaster…

“I did the best I could in my dimly lit bathroom,” says Hanson, 65. “I got dye all over, the roots came out bright red, and since I had existing highlights and lowlights, the rest of my hair was a variety of shades. My hair quickly became unusually dry and frizzy. I thought, ‘Oh boy, I should never have tried this!’ ’’

Friends, I’m not surprised. In all of my 42 years behind the chair, I have only seen TWO clients that have chosen the box dye instead of choosing to pay a professional, and their hair actually came out decent. Dry and a bit frizzy,, but decent.

The risk you take just isn’t worth it. One, you can do harm to you crowning glory that will outlast the lockdown. And, you may have to cut off more than you really want to, because of the damage.

For another, bad dye is a really expensive mistake to fix.

Corrective color can run three to four times what a normal visit can cost. It can run from $300 to $400. And even then, it might not be back to normal and can take a few sessions.

It’s awful and I empathize, but it’s so not worth ruining your hair over.

Try this instead: Why not match, as close as you can, the professional color you now have, with a color powder or spray, to use ONLY on your roots. If you find two that are close to the color you now have, choose the darker one. Never go lighter at the roots. It will look very, ummm….strange! Good news? If you hate it, it washes out easily. Just one shampoo, and bam! It’s gone.

If you can’t find what you think would look best, or if you’d rather just purchase from me, I brought a few of my color sprays home with me (imagine that), to share with my clients because I am locked out of my business suite.

They run $21.00 on my website. You’re actually reading from the site, now. So, when you are finished, just click on “Hair Care” and scroll to the Style Edit root concealer. They should be at the bottom of the page. Also, there will be a $5 shipping and handling charge, but hey! What’s five bucks compared to disaster? *wink *wink

love & gumption,

Mary

P.S. There’s only a few I have here at my home, so it will be first come, first served. I can order more from my distributor, but it will take a few days longer to get it to you. Stay healthy. Stay kind. Stay hopeful. I’ll see you soon!!!

3 Must Have Tips for Securing Holiday Hair

So…you want to dance the night away at the corporate 2019 holiday parties, but you’re not sure if your hair can handle it? Well now…

You have landed on the right website!

TIP #1: Turn the bobby pin so that the wavy side is down. When you slide the bobby pin into your hair, the wavy side should be against your scalp. Inserting the bobby pin in this way provides a better grip on your hair so that it stays in place.

TIP #2: Never OPEN the pin!!! When we stretch the pin open, it creates a space for more hair than what it was intended to keep in one place, resulting in pushing the pin back out. That is why you need a bazillion pins for just one hair-do. If done right, all you need are just a few…depending on the length and density of the hair, of course. Just slide the bobby pin in the hair at the place you need it to be.

TIP #3: There is simply no need to overlap the pins, creating an “X”. Many think this technique has to be, in order to keep the hair in place. That’s a false theory. A theory that causes too much stress on the hair follicle by the stretching created by crossing the pins.

Now you can walk with confidence while being the life of the party. Party on!!!

Q & A with Mary - Session 4

IT’S ALL ABOUT DAT BASE (‘bout dat base)

Question #4: “My hair needs more volume.” “What can I do to get more volume out of my hair? It just lays there.”

Answer #4: I hear this complaint all the time, and I want you to know I feel your pain. My hair is volume challenged, too! There are quite a few reasons why, but I would rather address how to correct it, than go into all the possible reasons it refuses to lift off the scalp.

Here are 9 quickies to address the volume issue:

1. CHANGE YOUR PART! Chances are, you have a favorite place to part your hair. It's where your hair likes to fall naturally (somewhere in the middle or off-center), or on the side closest to it. Problem is, that's also where your hair lies the most flat, and you're training it to stay that way. Flipping your part to the opposite side creates instant volume at the crown; if you're worried about looking lopsided, then do it while your hair is still wet. To build the most height, try a deep side part on the opposite side in dry hair, misting lightly with hairspray to hold. Bam! Model worthy!

2. BACK-BRUSH IT! Teasing has a bad rep. It doesn't have to mean aggressively back-combing your hair with a fine-toothed comb to create massive tangles (which are a nightmare to get out in the shower). You can actually create soft volume by back-brushing the roots, using a large paddle brush instead.

It’s best to pin up the uppermost layer of the hair, and then back-brush the rest, working section by section. Holding each section taut and away from the head, brush in a downward motion at the roots in three quick strokes. To make the volume last, spray each back-brushed area lightly, with hairspray. Once you've completed all the sections, let down the rest of the hair, leaving it smooth. Just don’t let your boyfriend try to run his fingers through your hair. *wink

3. BLOW-DRY UPSIDE DOWN. The best shortcut to a voluminous blowout is just flipping your head upside down. I know it sounds too easy, but it's exactly how I blow dry all my fine-haired clients hair. Well, I don’t have them flip upside down, but I use a technique that creates the same results. But, YOU, can flip your hair upside down while blowing. Just remember to aim the heat at the roots, not the ends. The reason this works is because upside down, your roots are automatically lifting off your scalp, which is how you want them to dry.

4. BOOST YOUR ROOTS! Root-boosting products are your friends. Think of them as the scaffolding to your hairstyle. They provide structure and support for any lift you manually create near the roots, helping your style last all day (or even several days).

Look for a product specifically designed for fine hair, so it won't weigh it down, and apply all over the head, right at the scalp. (I like Scruples Direct Volume). Make sure you use it on damp hair (towel dried) cause root-boosters won't work once hair is dried. And don't be afraid to layer your volume-building products, adding mousse and/or blow-dry spray through the lengths.

5. PUT IN HOT ROLLERS! Everybody forgets about hot rollers. But hot rollers are awesome! Unlike curling irons and flat irons, there's no special technique required; just throw them in while you're doing your makeup and 20 minutes later, you'll have sweet volume. This is a great trick if your hair is already dry and it's too late to build volume into your blow-dry.

All you need to do is choose which direction you want your waves. Rolling away from the face gives you glam Hollywood waves, while towards the face creates a more vintage, Veronica Lake effect. To make your volume last, mist each section with hairspray before rolling, and let the rollers cool completely before taking out. Then brush out and shape your waves for a soft, modern look.

6. USE VOLUME BUILDING SHAMPOO…like Scruples Structure Bath, found here https://www.elementssalonnc.com/products/

It's a no-brainer, but you'd be surprised at the difference a good shampoo makes to your volume goals. If you are purchasing “over the counter” a good rule of thumb is to use products that are clear or at least translucent, since they're the least likely to be loaded with heavy conditioning ingredients. Nothing white and creamy for seriously fine hair. And yes, it IS possible to find volume-building shampoo that doesn't strip your hair and is color safe. My suggestion (above), is such a shampoo!

Also go easy on the conditioner. Apply it to the bottom half or third of your hair, and make sure to rinse it well, but don’t strip it all out. A really great daily conditioner for fine, limp hair, is Scruples Quickseal Detangling Conditioner. It’s very light weight and nourishing to the hair. Find it here https://www.elementssalonnc.com/products/

7. SLEEP IN A BUN! Don't knock the scrunchie. It's super-useful for this overnight volume cheat—no heat required! After showering at night, pull hair up into a high, loose bun while it's still damp, and secure with a soft elastic (tight plastic ones may create creases). Your hair will dry lifted off the scalp, so when you wake up and take it down, you'll have insta-volume, plus soft waves.

Another way to get easy volume while you sleep is with a stretchy fabric headband. Wear it across your forehead and wrap sections of damp hair around it until all the hair is wrapped up, securing with pins if required. Take it out the next morning, and you'll have gorgeous Hollywood waves.

8. APPLY DRY SHAMPOO! Are you waiting until day two or three to use your dry shampoo? You might want to reconsider. By the time you notice your hair feels dirty, your scalp's natural oils are already sabotaging your volume, traveling down the hair shaft and starting to weigh down your strands.

I recommend a preventive approach, if your scalp has a natural tendency to get oily, by coating your scalp with a layer of dry shampoo as soon as you finish blow-drying. That way, there's already a barrier to the oil, stopping it in its tracks and helping your volume style to last longer. Bonus: dry shampoo is innately volume-building. Spray it through the lengths as well, to create even more texture.

9. ADD COLOR! Yep. You read that right! Color creates volume. If you don't lighten your hair, then here's a little secret from those of us who do. It's not just about the color—it's also about the texture it gives you. A little bleach creates added body and roughs up the hair cuticle so it's not so "slippery". Basically, a godsend for anyone whose hair lies flat and won't hold a volume style.

But you don't have to resort to a whole new hair color to benefit from the volumizing effect of bleach. A few peekaboo highlights, placed in the under-layers of your hair and in a tone-on-tone color, can give you just enough of a boost, without having to worry about re-growth.

And, there you have it!

Next question?